ANALYSIS OF SOME DYED ANCIENT TEXTILES FROM EDO STATE

Abstract

This work attempts to x-ray the identity of dyes used on Edo ancient textiles (Igbegbe, Evbu, Isonyen and Egbu) of seven to eight decades ago – whether it matches the ancient dyes of known structures such as indigo, madder, cochineal and Brazilian wood dyes. It was also intended to reveal the dyeing pattern and sources of fibres that make up the unknown fabrics; and also to obtain people’s opinion on the use of such fabrics. In the analysis, five (5) different fabrics (seven to eight decades old) of traditional importance to the Edo people were sourced from Edo state and labeled A, C, D, E and F. The fabrics were separated manually into the warp and weft yarns for easy identification.Microscopic Examinations and Burn Test were carried out on the separated yarns. Thereafter, dyes were stripped from the yarns for further analysis. Four (4) natural dyes: madder, indigo, Brazilian wood and cochineal were also analysed alongside for the purpose of comparison with the unknown samples. Two methods employed in this analysis include scientific experimentation and the use of questionnaire. Characterisation methods used include UV/Vis spectrophotometric, Thin Layer Chromatographic (TLC) and Atomic Absorption Spectrometric (AAS) analysis. Results revealed that the fabrics were woven from separately and evenly dyed yarns. The burn test identified the source of sample A as Nylon; sample C as Polyester and cotton; sample D as Linen, Rayon and Cotton; sample E as cotton and sample F as Cotton. The UV/Vis spectrophotometric results showed that there was no match between spectra of the natural dyes and that of the unknown stripped dyes when compared, The TLC results showed a single component for many of the samples with the exception of three and there was no match between the Rf values of the natural and stripped dyes when compared. AAS Results revealed Fe (from FeSO4) as high in samples A1with a value of 10.15mg/L; AH,13mg/L; E1, 5.75mg/L and E2, 7.5mg/L. Amounts of Cu (from CuSO4) present in these samples are 1.75, 2.5, 1.25 and 3 mg/L respectively. Al (from alum) was detected to be present in an amount <1mg/L. Fe and Al were detected in ten other samples in a very minute quantity of <0.1mg/L, whereas Cu is present in these samples in an amount ≥0.1. From the analysis of the questionnaires, 96.4% of respondents agreed that there are actually ancient textiles of traditional importance across the three senatorial districts of Edo State. 86.1% of respondents agreed that these textiles are used for the same ceremonial purposes across Edo State.72.1% agreed that Edo people prefer these textiles hence they are found in the market all over today.